What does natural mean?

This is a tricky question. For consumer products in the US, the term “natural” currently has no legal definition. For our purposes, however, it means that every ingredient in our perfumes was extracted from a natural source, rather than synthesized from petrochemicals. What this means practically is that our perfumes are very different in character than ones you might buy in a department store.

An exciting part of working with naturals is that each batch of perfume is unique. Even if the same materials and proportions are used to recreate a perfume, the year-to-year variability inherent in botanical extracts mean that each batch will differ slightly from the last. Additionally, there are certain core materials in each of our perfumes that cannot be substituted without dramatically altering their character. If a crop is destroyed, or the weather is poor, or a producer discontinues that product… it’s gone. In some cases, suppliers can locate another producer and the material reappears on the market. Sometimes, however, there is no one else producing that specific product and once it sells out it vanishes completely. This happens rather frequently and is what makes all of our perfumes truly limited-run. So if you have a favorite that you can’t live without, maybe grab an extra bottle! - Russell Weiss, Perfumer

What is the difference between oil-based and alcohol-based perfumes?

Oil-based perfumes tend to be more intimate, as they sit closer to your person. The key to these perfumes is how they react with your personal body chemistry, changing and developing as they are warmed by your skin. Our oil-based line is diluted in fractionated coconut oil, which is odorless and highly shelf stable. Oil-based perfumes are a fantastic vehicle for highlighting the amazing harmony of simpler blends; ours generally contain between 4 and 8 different botanical materials.

Alcohol-based perfumes broadcast. As the alcohol evaporates, it surrounds you in a fragrant cloud. Evaporation helps top notes shine by providing “lift,” making alcohol the preferred medium for more complex blends. These perfumes change character over time, revealing new facets as you wear them. A perfume that starts out with fresh green and citrus top notes, for example, might develop into deep, mossy woods as it dries out.

How are natural extracts made?

There are many different methods of extraction! An exciting part of working with naturals is experiencing how these different techniques can draw radically different aromatic profiles from the same material.

Essential oils are produced via steam distillation. This usually results in a mobile liquid.

Concretes are solvent extractions in which the plant waxes and resins remain, resulting in a solid mass. Concretes are generally soluble in fixed oils but not alcohol.

Absolutes are created when the plant waxes and other lipophilic material is removed from concretes. They range from viscous liquids to sticky, pitch-like solids. A fantastic example of how absolutes differ in aromatic profile from essential oils is Balsam Fir. Fir needle essential oil is watery and clear. It represents the camphorous and terpenic top notes well, like when you crush fresh needles in your hand. Fir absolute, however, is dark green-black and has the consistency of sticky tar. It has a deep, resinous conifer profile along with an incredible jammy, fruity sweetness.

CO2 Extracts are produced via supercritical CO2 extraction. This is a relatively new process that, when done well, results in a very true-to-life aromatic profile.

Natural Isolates are (nearly) single molecules which are extracted from natural plant materials or fermented wood lignin. They are generally used in small amounts as accents in a natural perfume.

Tinctures are made by soaking fresh or dried plant material in high-proof alcohol.

Enfleurage is a technique to extract the scent of flowers. The flowers are sealed in a container with a layer of solid fat which absorbs their scent. Often it takes dozens of “charges” to create a highly scented enfleurage.